The complete guide for everything you need to know about diamond shapes

As you shop at jewellery stores, you may see many different diamond shapes. This is different from a diamond's Cut, which is one of the 4C's. Let us go through different diamond shapes below, and what it means for your jewellery and budget. The most common shapes are Asscher, Baguette, Cushion, Emerald, Heart, Marquise, Oval, Pear, Princess, Round brilliant and Trapeze.

1.Asscher

Similar to an emerald cut, the Asscher cut features 58 facets arranged in three rows on the top and bottom, creating a nearly octagonal shape. Its larger facets allow for better weight retention from rough diamond crystals.

Asscher cut stones maintain a classic appearance with balanced scintillation, falling between the quiet elegance of an emerald cut and the brilliance of a modern brilliant cut.

In recent years, Asscher cut diamonds have seen increased popularity in engagement rings.

Today, vintage jewelry stores and new stones feature both the original Asscher cut and the patented Royal Asscher cut, which only the Royal Asscher Company is authorized to produce. These exquisite diamonds continue to captivate jewelry enthusiasts worldwide.

2.Baguette

Baguette diamonds are typically small, rectangular, step-cut stones with straight or tapered edges. While some baguettes are nearly square, others have a length-to-width ratio of 5:1 or more. Tapered baguettes feature long sides that angle inward. These diamonds are commonly used as side stones in engagement rings.

All baguettes in the ring should have similar color and clarity, ensuring they harmonize with the center diamond. Mismatched color or clarity can create an uneven appearance. On a side note, some baguette diamonds might be treated to enhance its appearance, which the jewellery retailer should disclose upfront.

3.Cushion

Here are some considerations when selecting a cushion cut diamond. First, cushion cuts have a different sparkle pattern compared to round brilliant or princess cut diamonds. To truly appreciate their beauty, visit a local jeweler and view several cushion cuts in person. Second, cushion cut diamonds often have varying girdle thickness. The girdle at the corners tends to be thicker than the girdle between corners. Lastly, look for symmetry in the stone’s outline. The sides and corners should mirror each other to avoid an uneven appearance.

4.Emerald

Emerald cut diamonds are highly regarded by many consumers for their classic outlines and subtle elegance. As a type of step-cut diamond, the emerald cut is particularly popular in this category. It features four longer sides with beveled corners, along with two, three, or four concentric rows of facets. These facets run parallel to the girdle on both the crown and pavilion.

However, it’s important to note that emerald cuts don’t conceal imperfections as effectively as other cuts due to their long step cuts. Inclusions become more noticeable, especially in lower clarity diamonds. Despite having 49 facets or more, emerald cuts exhibit less scintillation because of their step cut style. Interestingly, this facet pattern tends to emphasize any inferior color, as scintillation often masks such color variations.

5.Heart

Heart-shaped engagement rings show romance and serve as the perfect symbol of love. However, it’s interesting to note that heart-shaped diamonds are relatively rare in the world of diamond engagement rings. There are several reasons for this scarcity. One of the primary factors is that the heart shape tends to work best for larger diamonds—those that are at least half a carat in size. Despite their rarity, heart-shaped diamonds are now becoming more popular.

Do note that heart shape diamonds should be symmetrical. This means that if you draw a line down the middle of the diamond, both sides should be of equal shape and size.

6.Marquise

Marquise diamonds are beautiful when set on jewellery. It is important to note that the girdle, or the edge, has to be thicker in order to reduce damage. A good ratio between the width and length would be 1:2. In addition, the facets of the marquise diamond should be symmetric to unleash its beauty.

7.Oval

Oval diamonds are often cut with brilliant faceting, resulting in 57 or 58 facets—similar to a standard round brilliant diamond. The most common arrangement for an oval diamond includes eight bezel facets on the crown and eight main facets on the pavilion. When choosing oval diamonds, do note its symmetry and its ratio. The most common length to width ratio are 1.3 : 1 or 1.4 : 1.

8.Pear

Pear shaped diamonds are also one of the most common shapes. Similar to other shapes, symmetry is important to maintain its appearance. The length to width ratio should be 1.5 to 1.75:1. When choosing a pear shaped diamond ring, it is up to you to decide whether you want the diamond to point away or towards you.

9.Princess

A princess cut diamond is a square or rectangular gemstone with a unique faceting arrangement. Unlike step-cut diamonds (such as the Asscher cut), which have linear facets, princess cut diamonds feature modified brilliants. Imagine an upside-down pyramid—the princess cut resembles this shape, with most of its weight concentrated in the pavilion.

Here are some key points to consider when evaluating princess cut diamonds. First, look for a square princess cut with a length-to-width ratio not exceeding 1.05:1. Avoid diamonds with uneven sides or disproportionate proportions.

Second, the beauty of the cut lies in its symmetry. Examine the facets by mentally drawing an imaginary line down the diamond’s length. The more symmetrical the facets, the more desirable the diamond.

Third, scintillation refers to the sparkle and play of light within the diamond. Seek a balanced contrast of light and dark patterns in the table (top) and facets. Avoid stones that appear too light or too dark; opt for a pleasing balance. Remember, each princess cut diamond is unique, offering a dazzling combination of brilliance and elegance.

10.Round

Round diamonds are the most common in the market. Today’s round brilliant-cut diamonds, with 57 or 58 facets, represent the pinnacle of diamond cutting. These gems have evolved through various stages, refining proportions and facet sizes. Skilled cutters across generations have contributed to their brilliance. The 4C's - colour, cut, clarity and carat - contributes to its quality and price.

11.Trapeze

Trapeze is one of the least common diamond shapes. There are two primary cuts for trapezoids: brilliant-cut and step-cut. The brilliant trapezoid pairs beautifully with rectangular center stones like radiants and princess diamonds, creating a harmonious and dazzling composition.

On the other hand, step-cut trapezoids often accompany emerald or Asscher cut center stones. Their elongated shape allows for a nicely sized side stone between the cut corners of the emerald shape.

The larger surface area of a trapeze diamond provides more sparkle than baguette shaped diamonds.